1966 and all that -the Demolition of Walmer Road

1966 and all that – The Demolition of Walmer Road


The West Cross Route was first mooted in the 1950s as part of a projected vital major arterial road into central London from the west. The main artery was to be a four lane dual carriageway extension of the A40  beginning where the Westway (itself an 800yd extension of the A40) met Wood Lane and ending by merging into the start of the  Marylebone Road in Paddington. The road would be elevated to carry it above existing buildings so as to keep demolition of such property to a minimum. This objective was generally achieved throughout its 4 mile length through the capital except in the area of Notting Dale around Walmer Road which was to be the site of the first of two access points along its route, the other being at Paddington where the Harrow Road would join it. At the first access point a new roundabout sited below the new road was necessary to facilitate vehicular access. As this roundabout was below the road a huge demolition program was required to accommodate it which would decimate a large and densely populated part of Notting Dale completely destroying the community resident there. The roundabout was sited broadly in a square area bounded by Oldham Road to the west, Silchester Mews to the east, Walmer Road to the north and Silchester Road to the south. All these roads would disappear at least in part along with sections of Blechydon Street whilst Calverley Street, situated between Oldham Road and Silchester Mews, Silchester Terrace and Latimer Mews would disappear completely – in short an entire area and its community.   Walmer Road was somewhat unique in that only the south side (nos 2-128) was to be demolished along with part of the north side (nos 3-49 and 103-121) leaving isolated in the middle almost an island of three blocks of the north side (nos 51-101) which would remain quite literally in the shadow of the elevated dual carriageway above. (See maps at foot of page)

 Although in the Royal Borough, this part of Notting Dale was designated in Charles Booth’s 1902 survey as amongst London’s poorest and had long been perceived by Kensington council as a blot on the local landscape. Already characterised as the centre of the infamous race riots of 1958, the horrific murders in nearby Rillington Place a couple of years earlier, along with a more recent shotgun killing in Walmer Road, its houses were in poor repair without inside sanitation or hot water.  It’s little wonder they viewed the construction of the West Cross Route as an ideal moment for some opportunist slum clearance though how much thought was given at the time to the fate of its occupants is extremely debatable. It may be worth noting that at this roundabout an exit was planned (and built and the spur still exists today) for a further dual carriageway to strike out northeastward to join the foot of the M1. This plan was floored by objections from residents of the adjoining St. Quintins Estate and others, though it seems the same amount of consideration was not afforded the residents of the aforementioned streets of Notting Dale which were demolished leaving a community in tatters. A perfectly feasible alternative site for the roundabout existed only c.250 yards to the south west on the west side of Latimer Road on open Council owned land used at the time for, amongst other things, training learner motor cyclists. I trained there myself in July/August 1964. So it seems certain that ‘slum clearance’ was the prime motivation.

I lived at no.77 Walmer Road in the centre of the ‘island’ described above and below is my recollection of the demolition that wrecked a community.

I was 17 when demolition began in spring 1966 continuing through summer of that year and was carried out by Johnnie Corney, a local jack the lad in his late 20s who fancied himself as the Notting Hill representative of Sinatra’s New York Rat Pack. His demolition business had been created in the 1950s by his father, Jimmy, a quiet reserved man and carried on later by Johnnie who had dropped lucky with this large contract and did very well financially out of it enabling him to further advance his playboy ambitions. I found him a likeable ‘flash ‘arry’.

In the aftermath of the W
W2 there had been a need for demolition companies across London which had been left with hundreds of uncleared bomb sites serving as makeshift playgrounds for local children including a belter between Walmer and Silchester Roads where I ‘fought’ many ‘wars’ as a youngster. They were also used as unofficial dumps and I would remove old radios and TVs dumped there and strip them of the copper wire which I sold to one of the several scrap metal dealers in the area.
Thus these new demolition companies sprang up, usually created by people with rougher edges and a blue collar background.  No exception were the Corney family who I knew quite well as I had gone out with Johnnie’s younger sister Brenda for a while and was also friends with Johnny Fletcher who married Johnnie Corney’s other sister Sylvia. The demolition required the removal of the rubble, designated as ‘hard core’, which was taken to nearby sites where new building work was going on and used as a base for foundations. This hard core removal was carried out by individual owner-drivers of tipper lorries who would receive payment for it from the building companies as well as receiving cash from Johnnie for removing it.   All of these drivers were locals known to Johnnie. I knew most of these people as well including Jimmy Smith, father of my good friend Roy and Jackie Vass, later a publican in Acton. The demolition work brought a welcome injection of ‘fresh’ (cash) and we often all socialised together, young and old as was the tradition then.  We used mainly the ‘Latymer Arms’ on the corner of Latimer Road and Walmer Road or the ‘Kenilworth Castle’ on St. Anns Road. Both had music or entertainment at weekends usually in the form of a pianist and drummer accompanied by the local Sinatra/Bennett/Martin/ wannabes, many of whom were good singers including Johnny Fletcher and particularly his older brother Alfie  who always sang ‘Passing Strangers’ with his wife, Connie a la Eckstein and Vaughan. In the Latymer, Danny MacDermott’s father would always play the spoons if there was a shortage of singers. Another entertaining singer in the Kenilworth was a guy who didn’t seem quite the full ticket and he used to do ‘Autumn Leaves’ whilst crushing Smiths crisps in his hand held above his head allowing them to cascade all over his suit. Another night he did ‘The Ghost Riders in the Sky’ and in the middle produced a gun which he fired at the ceiling as everyone dived for cover – fortunately it was a starting pistol though with this particular individual you couldn’t afford to take the chance. Dull it wasn’t.

My Mother was always tickled pink by Corney as he turned up for work every day wearing a suit, fresh white shirt, ostentatious cufflinks, tie and polished shoes you could see your face in.  Frank would have been impressed.  Off would come the jacket revealing thin red braces (always thin) and work would commence on the demolition. She was less tickled with the consequences of the demolition, actioned by smashing a huge steel ball against the masonry (no science degree needed here), resulting in a constant stream of dirt, dust and filth raining down on the remaining three blocks on Walmer Road causing unimaginable mess and making her job of keeping things clean completely impossible. This continued day in day out, week in week out making everyday life, which had never been exactly a picnic in this neck of the woods, difficult. To be honest as a youth I didn’t take too much notice and along with everyone else just got on with things – I had a new job and a very busy social life to get on with and the young are adaptable and can take adversity in their stride and you got plenty of practice at that living in Walmer Road!   

There were other unwelcome consequences; in common with any large city there had always been a healthy population of rats however the demolition rendered a large number homeless and they naturally moved to the remaining three blocks still standing. One morning my father nearly stepped on one that was sitting on the stairs as he came down. He whipped off his slipper and tried to clump it but it soon made good its escape through a small gap in the door to the understairs cupboard. Inside it we soon discovered they had eaten a large hole in the lathe and plaster about 2ft 6
square so they could get about freely – they had made a West Cross Route of their own!  On another occasion my mother went to get coal from the bunker in the back yard and as she pushed the shovel into the trap door at the bottom a rat ran out through the trap door and over the shovel – I don’t know who was more surprised, her or the rat – it was certainly arguable who ran the faster.  I think the Pied Piper would have thought twice about accepting this contract. We had a Persian cat Rupert who did his best but was badly outnumbered.
Against this backdrop work progressed until finally the whole area was gone and we were left looking at an empty space where our neighbours and friends had lived. Also gone was the (Silchester) mews opposite where daily the totters would stable their horses.   It now began to dawn just how close this new road with its constant thundering traffic would be. We could nearly touch it.  Up until then I didn’t even know its route but by now to continue to live there was looking to be something way beyond the austerity or harsh conditions we could all do standing on our heads.

 For my mother I think the most difficult cross to bear was the loss of many good neighbours who over decades had become firm friends upon whom you could rely. People such as Albert ‘Bertie’ Read at no.64, an ex Japanese P.O.W who suffered terribly at their hands whilst being forced to work on the bridge over the River Kwai. He later became the Kwai P.O.W’s representative appearing on television to highlight their plight. Then Bill Burrows at no 73, a kindly surgical instrument maker who repaired everyones watches in the evenings for nothing. Opposite was Johnny Neal who gave me a ten bob note when as a lad I found his driving licence lying in the road. At 91 was toolmaker Harry Bracher, newly married to Pat Wright who would take me fishing every Sunday in his Ford Consul after first picking up his younger brother Alan at 13 Silchester Terrace.  And many other kind, helpful neighbours too numerous to mention.

 I think it was easier for me being younger and having a wide circle of friends spread around other parts of west London – I had after all gone to school in Chelsea and made many friends from that neck of the woods. Also I was working in Blackfriars and making new friends there however I still lost a lot of good friends overnight who I had grown up with.

 There were to be other ramifications that would soon manifest themselves; with their core customer base summarily removed remaining local businesses in the immediate vicinity soon felt the pinch and began to flounder. Erstwhile busy local pubs once the
social hub followed suit – the ‘York’ quickly closed allowing the nearby ‘Notting Barn’ to soldier on for a few more years. The ‘Prince of Wales (aka The Feathers’) and The Black Bull both on Silchester Road  had already fallen to Mr Corneys steel ball. The Harrow Club, up until then a very popular boys sports club lost several key members heralding a change in its status towards a unisex youth club.

There were other interesting businesses that fell to the demolition: Tommy Lane at 71 Silchester Road had long been the ‘go-to’ man in the area for bike repairs – operating from a small overcrowded shop he was a rather frail looking man who suffered badly from deafness. He was quick to help anyone and there wasn’t anything on a bike he couldn’t fix – and all done for buttons. Then there was car breaker Fred Hannington whose yard was opposite me on the corner of Silchester Mews and Walmer Road, – a quiet man who broke almost exclusively Rolls Royces and customers would come from far and wide for parts.  I watched him build himself a wooden horsebox body on the back of a Rolls chassis and made a lovely job.  I think someone bought it from him and so he just built himself another. I thought he was very talented.   One day a well spoken young man looking lost (and slightly worried having arrived in Walmer Road) stopped outside my house in a lovely old yellow and black 1925 Doctors Coupe and asked me where Hannington’s yard was (there was no sign though he was nearly within touching distance) – so not getting too many opportunities to ride in a Rolls Royce, I said let me get in and I’ll show you. I took him up Walmer Road and into St.Helens Gardens left into Oxford Gardens, to the bottom then left into Latimer Road and left back into Walmer Road and back to my house Realising he was back where he started he exclaimed ‘but where’s Hannington’s Yard!’ – I just pointed opposite. He paused for a moment before seeing the funny side of being, quite literally ‘taken for a ride’. At number 5 Walmer Road there was Tiddy Maybank the greyhound owning newsagent who never missed a meeting at White City unless he was (seriously) ill. This shop was never empty, it was either busy, very busy or ‘we need more staff’. With the impending demolition of his business premises and  house (he lived at no.18) he moved to Sudbury taking a kiosk outside Sudbury tube station where he traded for many years. Next door to Maybanks’ was Morrissons the dairy and opposite was a  butcher and next door a grocers. Further along the north side were Ivy Kirkum’s sweet shop the outside guarded by Bill Kirkum’s Bull Mastiff – it was quite busy allowing Bill to buy a Vauxhall Cresta which helped the image he liked to project as a middle aged playboy.  All the aforementioned lost there businesses along with the cafe in Calverly Street and Sylvesters Fish and Chip shop in Silchester Road.  These are the ones I remember. Apologies to those I have missed.

With the demolition completed my Mother took stock and quickly realised that with the spectre of 24/7 noise and dirt from the soon to be built road, moving was the only answer. We moved to a rented house in Staines in April 1967.

Although Walmer Road may have been a rough tough area viewed by outsiders as a ‘no-go’ area, the majority of residents were decent hard working people doing their best in spartan conditions.  Whilst there can be no denying the area had a (very) hard edge

and a seamier side there was also humour,warmth, neighbourliness and a real working class spirit coupled, generally, to a strong work ethic. There was something of an unspoken ‘we’re all in it together’ feel and in searching for a suitable one-liner to describe life in 1950s/60s W.10 I can do no better than borrow former ‘Who’ manager Pete Meadon’s characterisation of the Mod movement of that era ‘Clean living under difficult circumstances’  – a perfect mantra for life in Notting Dale.

To conclude, the West Cross route may have ripped the heart from Notting Dale destroying a vibrant, lively and interesting area but it couldn’t destroy its spirit which lives on today in the hearts and minds of its far flung ex-residents
John Henwood, January 2013
showing the Walmer Road area before the demolition

showing the Walmer Road area before the demolition

Walmer Road area in 1969 after demolition and building of new road

Walmer Road area in 1969 after demolition and building of new road

looking eastward along Walmer Road from the junction with Pamber Street showing the three remaining blocks facing the new road. No77 is one from the far end of the middle block. Bill Kirkhams Vauxhall Cresta is the 3rd car on the left close to the junction with Aldermaston Street

looking eastward along Walmer Road from the junction with Pamber Street showing the three remaining blocks facing the new road.The authors house, No77 is one from the far end of the middle block. Bill Kirkhams Vauxhall Cresta is the 3rd car on the left close to the junction with Aldermaston Street

the author age 5 in Silchester Mews 1954.It was demolished in 1966. Nos 71,73 & 75 Walmer Road are in the background.

the author age 5 in Silchester Mews 1954 .It was demolished in 1966. Nos 71,73 & 75 Walmer Road are in the background.

Alan Bateman outside his house in Calverley Street which was totally demolished in 1966 to make way for the road

Alan Bateman outside his house in Calverley Street which was totally demolished in 1966 to make way for the road

This entry was posted in Before the Westway, Streets, Uncategorized and tagged , , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

203 Responses to 1966 and all that -the Demolition of Walmer Road

  1. Emma Roe says:

    Hi John, I came across your article whilst researching my family tree. Firstly let me say how much I enjoyed reading your account, it’s fascinating to build up such a vivid image of the area. My family history is concerning the family at number 73, the Barrow’s. This house is quite significant in my family history, and prior to Jessie & Bill solely residing at this address, Jessie’s parents, John William Roe & Eliza (my 2nd great grandparents) had also lived at this same address for over 50 years, until they died in 1951 & 1953. I have electoral roll records dating back to 1901, however of course could be even longer! I would very much like to get in contact with any one who may recall anything about the Barrow/Roe family of this address as i’m keen to build my knowledge further if possible. If any one has any information on this address, no matter how small, I would love to hear from you!! My email address is Emma.Roe@hotmail.co.uk. Thank you so much for sharing your account, it really is fascinating!

    Best Regards,

    • john henwood says:

      Dear Emma,
      Thank you for your kind words. I remember Bill Barrow as being a kind, gentle reserved man who was a dab hand at repairing watches and clocks…it may have been his occupation? If ever we needed a repair Bill did it and I don’t recall him making a charge. He and his wife got around in a motorbike and sidecar.

      with kind regards,


  2. Nicola Herbert says:

    Great stories which I’m going to share with my dad, Euan Herbert. He lived with his family – Irene, Megan, Rose and Brian at 140 Walmer Rd which used to be a newsagents once run by my grandmother Rachel Herbert new Davis. She actually served Christie a few times before he was found out.

    I vaguely recall the old house as it wasn’t demolished until 1970 (?) And remember being told to stay off the top floor as it was structurally unsound.

    I’m sure my dad would be delighted to hear from anyone who knew him or the family. He now lives in Hayes (since 1967) and turns 80 next year.

    • Joe Webb says:

      Hi Nicola, Do you know exactly where your grandmothers newsagents shop was in Walmer Rd
      I am trying to place it. Walmer Rd run from the Latimer Pub in Latimer Rd all the way down what
      was the Rugby Boys club down to Pottery Lane.

      God Bless
      Love to your Grandad

      Joe Webb

    • john henwood says:

      Dear Nicola,
      Thank you for your interest and I’m pleased you enjoyed my blog.
      In 1950 140 Walmer road had two occupants listed: Edward Herbert (your grandfather I guess) and T.A.Bartlett, a tobacconist.
      I recall the floor in the top storey of my house (no.77) was most unstable and I saw it bouncing up and down one evening c.1964 when I held a teenage party….I was frightened it would collapse but I couldn’t stop the dancing!

      with kind regards,


  3. Sue mitchell says:

    Hi Joe, great read. Wondering if you could help me place my exact previous residence address. When I was 9-10 in 1963-64 I lived for a while in a white block of ‘pretty poor’ 3 story flats/maisonettes within the Silchester-Walmer Road area and spent some time at Oxford Gardens school. I am trying to recapture my past as a record for my grandchildren but have forgotten the name of the flats/maisonettes and even the exact road they were in. An ice cream man lived on the ground floor and a local coalman was ‘ Stan’……. any help would be much appreciated. Thank you.

    • Margaret Pitcher Morgan says:

      Could it have been St Peters House or Salter House ? They were both white and were in Calverly Street corners of Silchester Road .The other end of Calverly street met up with Walmer road

      • John Hockley says:

        Hi, we lived at 9 Calverly Street, (Hockley) but moved out to Roehampton in May 1955. for the construction of Westway. I would have thought everything would have been knocked down by 1963. I remember the two blocks of flats being more yellow than white. A great help are the Old Ordnance Survey Maps 1872 / 1914 number 59 Notting Hill. All good fun. John Hockley

      • Margaret Pitcher Morgan says:

        They were still there when I married in 1961 and my parents did not move out from the house next to the flats until 1963

  4. John Hockley says:

    Thank you Margaret you are more informed than me.

  5. john henwood says:

    Dear Sue,
    Thank you for your interest. I am working on your question and want to answer accurately….Is Mitchell your maiden (family) name? Can you recall the surname of the ice cream man you mention?

    with kind regards,


  6. I knew Nell Sutton in Walmer Road at the start of the Seventies. But I don’t remember Nell which number you were at! Anyway, sadly, all those homes on the corner next to the budding motorway were pulled down. We have lost touch but I am hoping to remedy that!

  7. Alfie Kirkum says:

    Lovely piece John. I was born in Hurstway St. I have a good memory of the hill at that time. I also was a great friend of Roysie much missed , last time I saw him he played the spoons at my 60th also played football with him 🙏great memories, thankyou.

    • christine jamison says:

      Hello Alfie Kirkum! Just noticed your post; we must be related somewhere. I was born in Walmer Road 1954, but moved shortly after. My Dad was Bert Kirkum (his parents were Henry & Nell) and his brother owned the sweetshop with wife Ivy. I don’t come across many people with the same spelling of Kirkum (usually Kirkham). I’m Christine Jamison (nee Kirkum).

      • Alfie kirkum says:

        Just seen your post also , I think I had an uncle Bert I have a family tree somewhere , I will find it and friend you on fb you are a year younger than me

  8. Michael Berg says:

    There are some excellent aerial maps of this area at the “Britain from Above” website, dating from the ‘thirties. Make sure you register, then you can enlarge the maps, which are surprisingly detailed for the time. I lived at 187 Ladbroke Grove in the early seventies but by then the damage was done.

    My then girlfriend’s friend, a Jamaican gentleman, claims to have found the bodies hidden at 10 Rillington Place, but I take that story with a very large helping of salt!
    Mick Berg

  9. Linda wallington says:

    Hello Joe, just seen your article. My mum’s family were the Hanningtons that lived in Mersey Street and the Knapp unfortunately I know nothing about them. Great article about the area my family lived in. Thanks

  10. Clive Plaister says:

    Recently found out about my grand father and mother who resided at 80 Walmer Road where my father was born in 1901 my fathers name was Plaister and my grandmothers maiden name was Howell. Mary Ellen Howell owned a laundry and William Plaister worked for her as a laundryman.
    Mary died aged 41 in 1907 leaving according to probate £632 18s 11d.
    William Plaister died in 1911 at “Mary Place Workhouse and Casual Wards”
    My father also William (Reginald) was in the Childrens home at 253 King Street Hammersmith called “Kensington and Chelsea District School, Marlesford Lodge” He joined the Marines on 10th December 1915 aged 14 and served until 13th May 1961 and 7th November 1965.
    Do not believe he got anything from his mothers legacy.
    The above is not contemporary but is a very old bit of Walmer road history which I thought may have been of some interest.

    • Very interesting, particularly with your grandmother leaving what was then quite a tidy sum of money and then your grandfather ending up in Mary Place Workhouse. Incidentally the workhouse, considered to be a very tough place was sold to the council to be used for housing in 1919. Avondale Park Gardens now stands on the site.

      • Brenda Hargood says:

        My grandmother and mother lived at 12 Walmer Road from around 1914. My grandmother did laundry also and when my mother also worked in a laundry when she was old enough. I would love to see a photo of the houses in Walmer Road before they were demolished.

    • Hi clive. So your saying the old chap retired after serving 50 years active service as a Royal Marine aged 65?

  11. Louise Klitou says:

    Hello People, I lived in Aldermasten St. We were the only greek family living in west London. Hahaha omg I cant believe we exist…its nice to know other people who lived in this area, does anyone remember the old Georgian houses that used to be in Walmer Rd before the fly over… we should have set up a page on facebook…

  12. Leslie Buck, Vancouver, Canada says:

    The plan to extend Westway towards Central London pre-dated the 1950s. I was born at 4 Silchester Road over Bodgers the pawnbrokers and opposite Notting Hill Methodist Church in1929. We moved to Dr Buttery’s house further along Silchester Road and then (in 1937?) to 295 Latimer Road opposite the Latymer Arms, which unlike our old house, is still standing (or it was when I last saw it in 2010). 295 Latimer Road had been bought by the LCC in preparation for its demolition to make room for the extended Westway. In 1940 while I was evacuated the LCC had offered my parents a flat on the White City Estate, but they moved instead to Eynham Road. What kind of flyover was envisaged by the original plans is another question, but a bridge would have been needed to cross the West London Railway. In any event, plans must have existed then.

    • Brian ALLUM says:

      I Leslie I think the pawnshop where you lived was called Boshers they also had a shop in Bramley Road

      • Leslie Buck says:

        Yes, I’m sure you are right. Bodgers sounds more like Steptoe and son.

      • Hello. Was that the same people who had the pawnshop in Pottery Lane and Portland Rd? Mum and me went there every week with my dad’s suit until it was threadbare. Then we couldnt get anything for it. Hard times!

      • Leslie Buck says:

        Hallo Albie. I really don’t know. I was only two at the time! What I remember most about the place were the public baths on the other side of Silchester Street.

    • Joe Webb says:

      Leslie my sister Ruth husband Bimbo and there son Charlie Cook lived in the same house or next
      door to you in Latimer Rd.

      • Leslie Buck says:

        Hallo Joe. One son in the family next door was called Bunny. On the other side I think lived a woman called Dolly. In the two rooms at the top of our house were Mr and Mrs Copping. He had a workshop further along the road. I was only seven or eight at the time so my memory is dodgy.

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in:

WordPress.com Logo

You are commenting using your WordPress.com account. Log Out /  Change )

Google+ photo

You are commenting using your Google+ account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s